Glycolic, lactic, mandelic, and malic acid: a skincare guide (2025)

Goodbye, dull and lifeless skin!

In skincare, there's growing talk about active ingredients, and among them, fruit acids—also known as AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids)—play a key role. The name may sound complicated, but how they work is very simple: they help the skin renew itself naturally, improving its appearance day by day. AHAs are gentle acids that work on the skin’s surface by eliminating dead skin cells, the main culprits behind a dull appearance and discoloration.

Gentle exfoliation, visible results: the effect of fruit acids on the skin

@yejee.lee Intro to AHA and recommendations Do you want BHA next? Also if you guys have other good AHA recs lmk! #chemicalexfoliants #chemicalexfoliators #aha #bha #koreanskincare #skincarerecommendations original sound - yej

Fruit acids stimulate cell turnover, the natural process by which the skin renews itself. This brings a range of benefits: the complexion appears more even, the texture smoother, and pores less visible. They also enhance the effectiveness of products applied afterwards, as the skin becomes more receptive.

Properties of glycolic acid

Derived from sugarcane, it's one of the most effective AHAs thanks to its very small molecule, which easily penetrates the upper layers of the skin. It has a strong exfoliating action and stimulates collagen production, making it perfect for treating dark spots, acne marks, fine lines, and thick or dull skin. It's widely used in evening peels and serums at concentrations ranging from 5% to 10%. However, due to its strength, it may cause slight tingling upon application. That’s why it’s best to start with lower concentrations and observe how your skin reacts.

Lactic acid: what it is and what it's for

This acid, extracted from milk or fermented fruits, has exfoliating and hydrating properties. Its molecule is larger than glycolic acid, so it penetrates less deeply but is also gentler. It’s ideal for those with dry, sensitive skin or those starting to use AHAs gradually. Besides smoothing the skin, it improves radiance, evens out tone, and helps strengthen the skin barrier. It's commonly found in serums and toners. Best used in the evening, 2 to 3 times per week.

Mandelic acid

Derived from bitter almonds, it is an extremely gentle acid, making it perfect for the most sensitive or redness-prone skin. Despite its mildness, it’s effective for treating mild acne, uneven texture, and discoloration. It also has a slight antibacterial action, which makes it a good choice for sensitive combination or oily skin. Thanks to its tolerability, it can be used more frequently than other AHAs.

Malic acid

Derived from fruits like quince, pear, and cherry, malic acid is a lesser-known AHA but quite interesting. It offers exfoliating properties similar to other fruit acids, but stands out for being gentler and especially hydrating. It helps renew the skin gradually, enhancing radiance and helping to plump fine lines, making skin appear brighter and more youthful.

How to safely introduce them into your routine

AHAs should be used with care, especially at the beginning. It's best to start with a low concentration, such as 5%, and apply them once or twice a week. They are often found in toners, serums, masks, or creams—rarely in pure form. After use, it's essential to protect the skin with sunscreen, as these acids increase UV sensitivity.

Caution when combining acids

When using AHAs, avoid combining them with too many potent actives in the same routine, as this can cause irritation or increased sensitivity. For example, avoid using them with retinol: both are exfoliants, and combining them can overly stress the skin. It's better to alternate them on different days. The same goes for pure vitamin C, which can lose effectiveness when applied with AHAs and cause redness on sensitive skin. In that case, it's best to use vitamin C in the morning and acids at night. Even niacinamide, when used at high concentrations, may cause irritation when layered with AHAs, so it’s best to space them out or choose balanced formulas. Also watch out for other exfoliants like BHA or scrubs: using them all together can damage the skin’s barrier. With AHAs, keep your routine simple and avoid over-layering. They pair well with hydrating and soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides, and sunscreen should never be skipped during the day.

Glycolic, lactic, mandelic, and malic acid: a skincare guide (2025)

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